Venice: Family Style (Part One)

Truman Capote once said that being in Venice was like “eating an entire box of

chocolate liqueurs at once.” His words capture the intoxicating spell the city is known for

casting on visitors. More than just a destination, Venice feels like a doorway into another

world - one where the past and present seamlessly intersect to dazzle your senses. It’s

the rhythmic slap of water against bustling vaporettos, the reflection of ancient palazzos

in quiet canals, the briny scent of the morning’s catch from the Rialto Market, and the

feel of timeworn stone calli beneath your feet.

In October, we travelled to Venice with our adult children to celebrate three milestone

birthdays. What unfolded was so much more than a birthday trip; it was a rare

opportunity to discover one of the world’s most beautiful destinations as a family –

laughing, eating, and savoring the richness of Venetian life.

In this post, I will begin to share the itinerary I created for our five-night stay in San

Marco. As I discuss in When They Still Say Yes, planning an adventure with your adult

children and their partners comes with a unique set of rewards and challenges,

requiring a thoughtful balance between family time and individual free time. But with

flexibility, humor, respectful boundaries - and more than one bathroom – the experience

can lead to a deepening of family bonds and a lifetime of shared memories.

The Arrival

After flying into Milan, we boarded a high-speed train for an easy two-hour journey into

Stazione di Santa Lucia, the city’s main terminal. Located directly on the Grand Canal,

you only need to walk a short distance from the station to find yourself immersed in the

flow (quite literally) of Venice. Depending on the location of your accommodations, you

can either walk or take one of several water transport options to your desired location.

After twelve hours of travel, we opted for a private water taxi as a fast and direct way to

get to our Airbnb in San Marco, but there are much cheaper public vaporettos that run

regularly and make multiple stops.

Sailing along the Grand Canal into the heart of Venice feels amazingly cinematic, with a

rush of wind on your face as the city’s timeless beauty comes into view. We chose an

Airbnb located in San Marco, one of the smallest neighborhoods in Venice and home to

its iconic sites. It’s the most touristic of the city’s six districts or sestieri and that comes

with crowds and higher prices, but the central location makes it an ideal launch pad for

first time visitors.

Located in the quiet Campo Manin but just steps away from St. Mark’s Square, the

Palazzetto Manin encompasses the second floor of a beautifully restored 16 th -century

Venetian palazzo. With four spacious bedrooms and comfortable common areas, we

would be able to enjoy time together while still having plenty of private breathing space.

For a large group, this is a wonderful and affordable option to consider.

That evening, we kicked off our celebration with our first family activity. A relaxing

sunset stroll to the Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo led us to the magnificent Basilica

by the same name. Completed in 1430, it is the largest church in Venice and the resting

place of twenty-five Venetian doges. With intricate marble altars, vibrant frescoes, and a

sprawling Italian gothic nave, the basilica is breathtaking – but that evening it was only

our meeting point. As we took in the stunning facade and vowed to return later in the

week for a visit, our guide Nino arrived to take us on a private Bacaro Tour. A bacaro is

a simple Venetian wine bar where locals gather to order wine and small plates called

cicchetti. They’re a staple of Venetian social life and a fun and inexpensive way to

sample a variety of traditional dishes and regional wines.

As a native Venetian, Nino guided us to four of his favorite family-run bacari in quiet

residential neighborhoods. They were packed with locals who spilled into the streets,

using barrels as tables as they warmly greeted each other. It was intimate, unhurried,

and delicious. As we ate and drank together, Nino shared personal stories about his life

and his city, prompting questions from all of us that he answered with insightful honesty.

I could see our children considering what they were learning and integrating it into their

worldview. For me, that was the moment the trip started.

As lovely as it is to visit historic sites and discover local cuisines, nothing is more

important than reaching out to real people to hear their perspectives – even (or most

especially) if they run counter to your own beliefs. The bacaro tour was great; our

conversation with Nino was better. Through these exchanges we break down

stereotypes, foster curiosity, and remind ourselves that people everywhere share similar

hopes and challenges.

As Americans, we’re conditioned in many ways to view our culture as “exceptional” and

this mindset often prevents us from acknowledging so many positive aspects of (in this

case) European life. Cleaner food systems, healthier work-life balances, more

egalitarian social services, a deeper appreciation for the arts, more realistic beauty

standards – all of these are traditional European values that I am continuously inspired

by when traveling.

After we said goodbye to Nino, we had a family discussion about the

differences between our cultures and our very patriotic son had a hard time admitting

that there is much that we can learn from Europe. Perhaps it is our mythologized history

that has led us to believe that questioning any of our cultural values is somehow

“unamerican.” It’s a very limited and limiting way to approach the world but one that can

be transformed by mindful travel. As a parent of adult children, it’s one of the few things

of lasting value that I can still help them discover.

Ultimately, travel is not about collecting places. It’s about learning how to openly listen,

think, and connect with respect and positivity – and then allowing yourself the freedom

to change your perspective. Sometimes that can begin with a barrel and a glass of wine.

Coming up: Venice: Family-Style (Part Two).

TIPS AND TAKES - Planning for your arrival in Venice

Travelers arriving at Venice Marco Polo Airport can reach the city by taking a bus (the

ACTV Line 5 or the ATVO Express) to Piazzale Roma or by using the Alilaguna

waterbus or a private water taxi that goes directly into the lagoon.

Those coming into Venezia Santa Lucia train station are already in the historic center

and can take a vaporetto/water taxi or cross the Calatrava Bridge on foot to reach

Piazzale Roma and other parts of the city.

Getting around by water transport:

1. Vaporettos – are public waterbuses that run fixed routes along the Grand Canal

and to major islands. They’re an inexpensive and efficient way to move around

the city for daily activities. Tickets can be purchased at individual stops at the

Venezia Unica ticket booths or from ticket machines. Multi-day passes are also

available.

2. Traghettos – are longer gondolas that are strictly used to ferry people across the

Grand Canal. They are strategically placed where bridges are not within easy

walking distance. They only cost a couple euros.

3. Water Taxis – are usually the fastest and most direct option to get to a specific

location. They are also the most expensive. You can hire one from many points

along the Grand Canal or you can arrange in advance to have one meet you at a

specific location for a door-to-experience. This option makes sense if you have

luggage that you don’t want to lug aboard a vaporetto or if you have a special

dinner planned at a restaurant that is not within easy walking distance. Be aware

that it can be difficult to get a water taxi during peak times of the day and plan

accordingly.

4. Gondolas – I hesitate to even list this iconic boat under transportation, as it

really is an experience entirely its own. They are expensive – and rates are

typically negotiated with a gondolier for a set amount of time. But – you’re in

Venice…bite the bullet and climb in.

Where to Stay:

Venice is divided into six historic neighborhoods called sestieri—each with a distinct

personality. Travelers typically choose between convenience to must-see sites (San

Marco and San Polo), local atmosphere (Cannaregio and Castello), artsy vibes

(Dorsoduro), or proximity to bus and train options (Santa Croce). Hotel prices tend to

increase the closer you get to San Marco. The good news is that Venice is a very

walkable city and, when combined with the water transportation options, you can easily

move between sestieri.

Streets in Venice are usually listed by their sestieri first, followed by a unique building

number, which can make finding a specific location challenging. Wandering the city’s

picturesque alleys (or calli) is an essential experience for any visitor – BUT, if you need

to get somewhere directly, Google Maps (or the like) is a must.

Cited here:

Palazzetto Manin in San Marco:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/873029484368708499

Bacaro Tour with a Venetian (small group hosted by Nino):

https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/197547

Recommended Bacari for a local experience:

Osteria al Ponte – Campiello Widmann gia Biri

Da Alberto – Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina

Ai Promessi Spasi – Calle dell’Oca

Antica Adelaide – Racheta, Calle Priuli

Enoteca Al Volto – Calle Cavalli, 4081

Bar All’arco – S. Polo, 436

Osteria Al Tappo – Cannaregio,1188

Al Merca – Campo Bella Vienna, 213

Un Mondo di Vino – Salizada S. Canzian, 5984/a